thiservices

Septic System Components and Upgrades

Fri, 01 Mar 2024 23:57:22 GMT

How Septic Systems Work

How Septic Systems Work:

Septic systems are underground wastewater treatment structures commonly used in rural or older neighborhoods without centralized sewer systems. They work by treating and disposing of household wastewater on-site. Here's a simplified breakdown of how they operate:

Wastewater Generation : Wastewater from sinks, toilets, showers, and laundry drains into the septic tank through the main sewer line from the house.
Separation and Treatment : Inside the septic tank, solid waste settles to the bottom to form sludge, while lighter materials like grease and oils float to the top as scum. Bacteria present in the tank help break down organic matter.
Liquid Effluent : The liquid effluent, which is relatively clear, exits the tank and flows into the absorption field (also known as leach field or drain field) through a series of pipes.
Soil Filtration : In the absorption field, the effluent is distributed evenly across the soil where it undergoes further treatment as it percolates through layers of soil, which act as a natural filter, removing harmful bacteria, viruses, and nutrients.
Final Disposal : Once filtered, the treated effluent recharges the groundwater or evaporates into the air, completing the treatment process.

Components of a Septic System:

Cleanout: A cleanout is the first access point every septic system can benefit from. It allows access for maintenance and inspection between the home and septic tank. These are usually located within five feet of the home but may also be located in crawlspaces or basements.
Septic Tank : This is the primary treatment unit where solid waste is separated from wastewater.
Riser: A riser is the neck that is attached to the tank and is the base for a lid to attach to. Risers should be elevated and mildly landscaped around to prevent damage from mowers and weed eaters.
Lids: Often, septic tank lids that are buried are more difficult to locate. Modernizing your septic system with risers and lids allows for ease of access for both the homeowner and septic professionals.
Inlet and Outlet Pipes: Inlet and outlet pipes are located on septic tanks, dosing tanks, and distribution boxes. These are how effluent is guided away from the home and eventually into the soil.
Seals: Seals are installed around any piping entering or exiting any tank.
Baffles: Baffles help guide effluent or control floating debris from exiting the tank. Concrete baffles typically wear out and fall into the tank. It is best to replace and corroded concrete baffles with a sanitary T.
Distribution Box : To evenly distribute effluent from the septic tank into the absorption field, distribution boxes are commonly used. In some distribution boxes, diverters may be necessary to equal the flow evenly to each finger in the absorption field.
Absorption field : This is where the final treatment and disposal of effluent occur. It is paramount to protect this area from driving or building on. Compacting the soil with vehicles or livestock can cause the ground to no longer take on water.
Soil : Soil plays a vital role in treating effluent by filtering out contaminants. Older systems that are maintained properly may establish a bio mat that also restricts the natural absorption of effluent. New Paragraph

Importance of Upgrades and Maintenance:

Regular maintenance and occasional upgrades are essential to ensure the longevity and efficiency of your septic system. Here's why:

Preventative Maintenance : It is recommended to understand the pumping frequency for your septic system. Your lifestyle dictates. It helps remove accumulated solids and prevents tank overflow or backups into the house. We recommend having your septic system professionally inspected during that time to determine a more accurate schedule for your lifestyle.
Component Inspection : Regular inspections by qualified professionals can identify potential issues early, such as leaks, damaged components, or signs of failure.
Efficiency Improvements : Upgrading to more efficient fixtures and appliances can reduce water usage, alleviating the workload on your septic system and extending its lifespan.
Repair and Replacement : Addressing minor issues promptly can prevent them from escalating into costly repairs or the need for total system replacement.
Environmental Protection : A well-maintained septic system minimizes the risk of groundwater contamination and protects the environment and public health.

In conclusion, understanding how your septic system works and investing in its maintenance and upgrades are essential responsibilities for homeowners. By taking proactive measures, you can ensure the continued functionality and environmental sustainability of your septic system for years to come.

What is the difference between Moisture Intrusion and a Wet Location?

Sun, 18 Feb 2024 15:18:34 GMT

Moisture Intrusion vs Wet Locations

In a home inspection context, "wet locations" and "moisture intrusion" refer to different issues related to water presence in a property, but they have distinct meanings:

Wet Locations :

Wet locations typically refer to areas in a home where water is expected or intended to be present. These areas are designed to withstand moisture and are equipped with materials and features that are water-resistant or waterproof.
Common wet locations in a home include bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, garages, and utility areas where plumbing fixtures such as sinks, showers, toilets, and washing machines are located.
During a home inspection, inspectors check wet locations for proper functioning of plumbing fixtures, signs of leaks, and adequate waterproofing measures like caulking, grouting, and sealing.

Moisture Intrusion :

Moisture intrusion, on the other hand, refers to the unintended or unwanted entry of water into areas of a home where it shouldn't be. This can occur due to various reasons such as leaks, condensation, or poor drainage.
Moisture intrusion can lead to significant damage over time, including mold growth, rotting of wood, deterioration of building materials, and structural issues.
Home inspectors actively look for signs of moisture intrusion during inspections. These signs may include water stains on walls or ceilings, musty odors, peeling paint or wallpaper, warped or damaged flooring, and visible mold or mildew.
Identifying and addressing moisture intrusion issues early is crucial to preventing further damage and maintaining the integrity of the home's structure and indoor air quality.

In summary, while wet locations are areas where water is expected, moisture intrusion refers to the unwanted entry of water into areas of a home, potentially causing damage and requiring prompt attention and remediation.

Septic Inspections

Thu, 15 Feb 2024 13:06:38 GMT

Septic Inspections:

Modified Hydraulic Load Test

Dye Test vs. Professional Septic Inspections

The image below shows water flowing as normal even with a clog present. Water passes by, but solids will not.

Modified hydraulic load tests, used for septic system evaluation, primarily encompass dye testing and professional septic inspections.

Dye tests focus on water flow within the system, regardless of the color of the dye used. However, they do not detect blockages that impede the flow of solids. Therefore, they are typically employed by septic professionals only to confirm system failure, rather than as a routine inspection tool.

Professional septic inspections, on the other hand, offer a more comprehensive assessment. They involve visual inspection of the tank and other components, which requires access to the tank lid. These inspections are crucial for identifying issues that could lead to unexpected repairs or system failure, potentially causing financial strain for homeowners.

Inspectors, trained by organizations like the Indiana Onsite Wastewater Professionals Association (IOWPA), follow detailed protocols for conducting inspections. This includes obtaining relevant records from the County Health Department and collecting essential information about the property, such as the number of bedrooms and bathrooms.

During the inspection, which typically lasts 2 to 3 hours, inspectors check for leaks, inspect waste lines, and assess the condition of various components. They may need to dig up parts of the yard for a closer examination, ensuring that safety protocols, such as calling 811, are followed to avoid damaging underground utilities.

Homeowners should be aware that if they choose to remove the tank lid themselves, they should do so carefully to avoid damage. It's recommended to hire a professional pumper for this task to prevent unnecessary damage to the system or the yard.

Overall, professional septic inspections are vital for maintaining the functionality and longevity of septic systems, helping homeowners avoid costly repairs and potential health hazards associated with system failure.

10 Easy Ways to Save Money & Energy in Your Home

keith@speedmobi.com (Keith Carpenter) — Mon, 23 Sep 2019 23:41:24 GMT

Save money and energy at home.

Most people don’t know how easy it is to make their homes run on less energy, and here at InterNACHI, we want to change that.

Drastic reductions in heating, cooling and electricity costs can be accomplished through very simple changes, most of which homeowners can do themselves. Of course, for homeowners who want to take advantage of the most up-to-date knowledge and systems in home energy efficiency, InterNACHI energy auditors can perform in-depth testing to find the best energy solutions for your particular home.

Why make your home more energy efficient? Here are a few good reasons:

Federal, state, utility and local jurisdictions' financial incentives, such as tax breaks, are very advantageous for homeowners in most parts of the U.S.

It saves money. It costs less to power a home that has been converted to be more energy-efficient.

It increases the comfort level indoors.

It reduces our impact on climate change. Many scientists now believe that excessive energy consumption contributes significantly to global warming.

It reduces pollution. Conventional power production introduces pollutants that find their way into the air, soil and water supplies.

1. Find better ways to heat and cool your house.

As much as half of the energy used in homes goes toward heating and cooling. The following are a few ways that energy bills can be reduced through adjustments to the heating and cooling systems:

Install a ceiling fan. Ceiling fans can be used in place of air conditioners, which require a large amount of energy.

Periodically replace air filters in air conditioners and heaters.

Set thermostats to an appropriate temperature. Specifically, they should be turned down at night and when no one is home. In most homes, about 2% of the heating bill will be saved for each degree that the thermostat is lowered for at least eight hours each day. Turning down the thermostat from 75° F to 70° F, for example, saves about 10% on heating costs.

Install a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat saves money by allowing heating and cooling appliances to be automatically turned down during times that no one is home and at night. Programmable thermostats contain no mercury and, in some climate zones, can save up to $150 per year in energy costs.

Install a wood stove or a pellet stove. These are more efficient sources of heat than furnaces.

At night, curtains drawn over windows will better insulate the room.

Image of a high-efficiency thermostat at the InterNACHI® House of Horrors® in Colorado.

2. Install a tankless water heater.

Demand-type water heaters (tankless or instantaneous) provide hot water only as it is needed. They don't produce the standby energy losses associated with traditional storage water heaters, which will save on energy costs. Tankless water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. A gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, demand water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don't need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water.

3. Replace incandescent lights.

The average household dedicates 11% of its energy budget to lighting. Traditional incandescent lights convert approximately only 10% of the energy they consume into light, while the rest becomes heat. The use of new lighting technologies, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs), can reduce the energy use required by lighting by 50% to 75%. Advances in lighting controls offer further energy savings by reducing the amount of time that lights are on but not being used. Here are some facts about CFLs and LEDs:

CFLs use 75% less energy and last about 10 times longer than traditional incandescent bulbs.

LEDs last even longer than CFLs and consume less energy.

LEDs have no moving parts and, unlike CFLs, they contain no mercury.

4. Seal and insulate your home.

Sealing and insulating your home is one of the most cost-effective ways to make a home more comfortable and energy-efficient, and you can do it yourself. A tightly sealed home can improve comfort and indoor air quality while reducing utility bills. An InterNACHI energy auditor can assess leakage in the building envelope and recommend fixes that will dramatically increase comfort and energy savings.

The following are some common places where leakage may occur:

electrical receptacles/outlets;
mail slots;
around pipes and wires;
wall- or window-mounted air conditioners;
attic hatches;
fireplace dampers;
inadequate weatherstripping around doors;
baseboards;
window frames; and
switch plates.

Because hot air rises, air leaks are most likely to occur in the attic. Homeowners can perform a variety of repairs and maintenance to their attics that save them money on cooling and heating, such as:

Plug the large holes. Locations in the attic where leakage is most likely to be the greatest are where walls meet the attic floor, behind and under attic knee walls, and in dropped-ceiling areas.

Seal the small holes. You can easily do this by looking for areas where the insulation is darkened. Darkened insulation is a result of dusty interior air being filtered by insulation before leaking through small holes in the building envelope. In cold weather, you may see frosty areas in the insulation caused by warm, moist air condensing and then freezing as it hits the cold attic air. In warmer weather, you’ll find water staining in these same areas. Use expanding foam or caulk to seal the openings around plumbing vent pipes and electrical wires. Cover the areas with insulation after the caulk is dry.

Seal up the attic access panel with weatherstripping. You can cut a piece of fiberglass or rigid foamboard insulation in the same size as the attic hatch and glue it to the back of the attic access panel. If you have pull-down attic stairs or an attic door, these should be sealed in a similar manner.

5. Install efficient showerheads and toilets.

The following systems can be installed to conserve water usage in homes:

low-flow showerheads. They are available in different flow rates, and some have a pause button which shuts off the water while the bather lathers up;

low-flow toilets. Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can reduce usage an average of 2 gallons-per-flush (GPF), saving 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have "1.6 GPF" marked on the bowl behind the seat or inside the tank;

vacuum-assist toilets. This type of toilet has a vacuum chamber that uses a siphon action to suck air from the trap beneath the bowl, allowing it to quickly fill with water to clear waste. Vacuum-assist toilets are relatively quiet; and

dual-flush toilets. Dual-flush toilets have been used in Europe and Australia for years and are now gaining in popularity in the U.S. Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a 1-gallon (or less) flush for liquid waste, and a 1.6-gallon flush for solid waste. Dual-flush 1.6-GPF toilets reduce water consumption by an additional 30%.

6. Use appliances and electronics responsibly.

Appliances and electronics account for about 20% of household energy bills in a typical U.S. home. The following are tips that will reduce the required energy of electronics and appliances:

Refrigerators and freezers should not be located near the stove, dishwasher or heat vents, or exposed to direct sunlight. Exposure to warm areas will force them to use more energy to remain cool.

Computers should be shut off when not in use. If unattended computers must be left on, their monitors should be shut off. According to some studies, computers account for approximately 3% of all energy consumption in the United States.

Use efficient ENERGY STAR-rated appliances and electronics. These devices, approved by the U.S. Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency’s ENERGY STAR Program, include TVs, home theater systems, DVD players, CD players, receivers, speakers, and more. According to the EPA, if just 10% of homes used energy-efficient appliances, it would reduce carbon emissions by the equivalent of 1.7 million acres of trees.

Chargers, such as those used for laptops and cell phones, consume energy when they are plugged in. When they are not connected to electronics, chargers should be unplugged.

Laptop computers consume considerably less electricity than desktop computers.

7. Install daylighting as an alternative to electrical lighting.

Daylighting is the practice of using natural light to illuminate the home's interior. It can be achieved using the following approaches:

skylights. It’s important that they be double-pane or they may not be cost-effective. Flashing skylights correctly is key to avoiding leaks;

light shelves. Light shelves are passive devices designed to bounce light deep into a building. They may be interior or exterior. Light shelves can introduce light into a space up to 2½ times the distance from the floor to the top of the window, and advanced light shelves may introduce four times that amount;

clerestory windows. Clerestory windows are short, wide windows set high on the wall. Protected from the summer sun by the roof overhang, they allow winter sun to shine through for natural lighting and warmth; and

light tubes. Light tubes use a special lens designed to amplify low-level light and reduce light intensity from the midday sun. Sunlight is channeled through a tube coated with a highly reflective material, and then enters the living space through a diffuser designed to distribute light evenly.

8. Insulate windows and doors.

About one-third of the home's total heat loss usually occurs through windows and doors. The following are ways to reduce energy lost through windows and doors:

Seal all window edges and cracks with rope caulk. This is the cheapest and simplest option.

Windows can be weatherstripped with a special lining that is inserted between the window and the frame. For doors, apply weatherstripping around the whole perimeter to ensure a tight seal when they're closed. Install quality door sweeps on the bottom of the doors, if they aren't already in place.

Install storm windows at windows with only single panes. A removable glass frame can be installed over an existing window.

If existing windows have rotted or damaged wood, cracked glass, missing putty, poorly fitting sashes, or locks that don't work, they should be repaired or replaced.

9. Cook smart.

An enormous amount of energy is wasted while cooking. The following recommendations and statistics illustrate less wasteful ways of cooking:

Convection ovens are more efficient that conventional ovens. They use fans to force hot air to circulate more evenly, thereby allowing food to be cooked at a lower temperature. Convection ovens use approximately 20% less electricity than conventional ovens.

Microwave ovens consume approximately 80% less energy than conventional ovens.

Pans should be placed on the matching size heating element or flame.

Using lids on pots and pans will heat food more quickly than cooking in uncovered pots and pans.

Pressure cookers reduce cooking time dramatically.

When using conventional ovens, food should be placed on the top rack. The top rack is hotter and will cook food faster.

10. Change the way you do laundry.

Do not use the medium setting on your washer. Wait until you have a full load of clothes, as the medium setting saves less than half of the water and energy used for a full load.

Avoid using high-temperature settings when clothes are not very soiled. Water that is 140° F uses far more energy than 103° F for the warm-water setting, but 140° F isn’t that much more effective for getting clothes clean.

Clean the lint trap every time before you use the dryer. Not only is excess lint a fire hazard, but it will prolong the amount of time required for your clothes to dry.

If possible, air-dry your clothes on lines and racks.

Spin-dry or wring clothes out before putting them into a dryer.

Homeowners who take the initiative to make these changes usually discover that the energy savings are more than worth the effort. InterNACHI home inspectors can make this process much easier because they can perform a more comprehensive assessment of energy-savings potential than the average homeowner can.